Racy, a term often used to describe Champagne, rarely applies to California sparkling wine. Roederer Estate’s second release of L’Ermitage Rosé is one of the few exceptions-racy, as well as delicate, layered, savory and gently sweet. It’s a compelling take on a clean sparkler from the California coast, with the feel of the cold ocean and something of the taste of the sea creating tension and motion in the wine. If I were to describe the color as the pink blush on a golden apple, I would only diminish it to a cliché. The color is as brilliant as the wine itself. This is a breakthrough wine for California, and perhaps the ultimate match for Dungeness crab. Don’t miss it.